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Summer 2019 Newsletter



What do you recommend for a battery for a Series 1 E-type? I want the correct size one that is good for showing, and it must fit in the battery retaining frame, not just the bottom tray. I live in CA so cold starts are not an issue.

If you will be showing your car then we think you will like a Lucas “tar top” battery. It does fit perfectly, including inside the retaining frame that fits over the top of the battery.

However, if you want a more dependable and less expensive battery then you can use a black Group 86 battery from Interstate Battery, Bosch, or any other major brand. If the retaining frame is slightly different in size, you can cut and weld down the frame to make it smaller. Then it will pass in a concours. If you do that then we recommend you remove the decal off the battery and put a Lucas battery decal on the front. Then it would be Concours correct, and last longer than the tar top.



The color on my newly acquired 1969 E-type OTS is Silver-Grey…Can let me know how to tell if it is the original color or it has been resprayed?

If you can obtain a Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust Certificate, it will list the original color of the car. If you can't obtain a certificate, there might be a few places you can look to determine if the car has been repainted or has original paint:

  1. You can remove the boot hinge/lock mechanism covers, which are held on by 2 screws, and might find the original factory color behind there as well.
  2. You might remove the two thumbscrews in the corners and lower the center dash. You’ll usually find the original paint inside.
  3. You can look in hidden areas all around the car, under the dash, in the boot where the gas tank is or behind the panels – might show a different color.


What makes a classic car more valuable?

  1. ORIGINALITY:  A classic car has a higher value if it has all its original equipment intact and in good condition. This would include the interior of the car, the seats, the carpets, the pedal rubbers and other items. The better the car’s original condition, the more valuable it is. You might want to have an expert to help determine the originality of the car for you.
  2. AUTHENTICITY: This is also one of the important factors which dictate the pricing of a classic car. Authenticity can be proven by the VIN number, the date codes, the casting number, and the transmission and rear end tags. These are usually what classic car collectors look for before buying to make sure they would be investing in something that is truly of value.
  3. CONDITION: The overall condition of the classic car also influences its price. A classic car which is in great shape and ready to use would definitely cost more than one which is in poor condition and needs some work done. This is something you might want to consider when looking to purchase a classic car, as you do not want to end up getting one requiring you to spend a lot to refurbish it.
  4. PEDIGREE:  Showing in concours’ shows, and winning awards, lends credence to the proper state of the vehicle, thus increasing its value.
  5. LIMITED PRODUCTION / RARITY: How many were manufactured? How many are left? When gauging the worth, and consequently, the appreciation of an antique car, you must ultimately consider how rare the original car was and compare that to how rare it is now. If the original car was a mass produced, production vehicle then it is unlikely it will appreciate much. However, if only 500 or so of the vehicles were made, the car's worth increases exponentially.


What are the steps in the restoration process?

• Evaluate, document, & photograph
• Pressure clean the car 
• Take the vehicle apart
• Remove the exterior trim and strip the   paint to the bare metal
• Remove the interior
• Remove bolt-on body panels
• Remove the motor trans, other mechanical systems and disassemble
• install on the rotisserie
• Cut out rust, install original replacement panels or fabricate new pieces (if needed), weld in place

• Access the body for dents and waves, fix appropriately 
• Metal finish, re-lead as needed, and apply a light skim coat of filler to body, smooth out any minor inconsistencies as needed
• Sand down the filler and prime with metal etching primer
• Fit chrome and new rubber to the car in bare metal
• Add epoxy primer and the “guide coat”
• Paint all the edges of the body in the color the car will be painted

• Paint, wet sand and buff vehicle
• Assemble and attach components to vehicle
• Install the motor, and transmission, and other mechanical components and systems
• Assemble the body panels and attach all remaining parts to the body
• Reassemble exterior trim, glass and doors then install the interior, and all rubber seals
• Set up, tweak and drive up to 100 miles to break in the car and make sure it is set up properly. Inspect on a lift after each drive test.
• Perform pre-delivery service



What is the difference between Original, Restored, and Resto-Mod?

The world of classic cars is made of an unimaginable number of makes and models, thousands of upgrades and unlimited options. But all classic cars fall into one of three categories: Original, restored or resto-mod. As you begin the grueling task of refurbishing a special vehicle, you should consider the options available to you for your specific project. 

  1. ORIGINAL CAR: Original cars are extremely rare. A true, original car is a vehicle that has been maintained both aesthetically and mechanically without the replacement of any parts or pieces. The repairs that have occurred are few and far between, and whenever possible, parts needing maintenance have been fixed rather than replaced.

    One way to determine if a classic car is original is to look for “matching numbers.” The term “matching numbers” or “numbers matching” simply refers to the serial numbers that were stamped or cast on the major components of the vehicle during production. Those serial numbers match the other components on the car or may refer to the assigned numbers of the production facility, date or the series of the vehicle. Since VIN’s were not standardized until the 1980’s, the manufacturers each had their own system of assigning numbers. Depending on the make and model of the classic car, the engine, transmission, rear axle, alternator, generator, carburetor, distributor, water pump and heads may be numbered. A vehicle with “matching numbers” is original and is considerably more valuable than those without. Thus, a true, original vehicle is a rare thing, and the reality is that most vehicles being sold as "original" are more appropriately described as "restored."   
  2. RESTORED CARS: Restored vehicles are classic cars that have been usually refurbished to their factory specifications using original factory parts. “New old stock” or NOS, are parts that are old, but are new and have never been used. While many of these parts can be located, the cost, time involved, and availability of some parts make it a daunting task for many. Therefore, many vehicles are restored using new parts that have been manufactured to the original specs. For a “Show restored” car, the end goal is to repair and refurbish the vehicle so that it looks and operates the same as the day it rolled off the assembly line.
  3. RESTO-MOD (i.e. Heavily Modified): A resto-mod is a classic car that has been restored but modified with modern parts and technology. Aesthetically, the vehicle in general looks the same until you look under the hood or reach for the radio. The owner wishes to modify the car to their taste and wishes, so it’s very personalized. Its modern technology in an older working car, with all the improvements of today, such as comfort, looks, electronics, etc…Regardless of what features are changed or added, the ultimate goal is to modify the classic car without significantly altering its outward appearance.