The Jaguar XK120 is a car that holds a special place in automotive history. It’s widely recognized by enthusiasts and collectors for its stunning design and impressive speed, but few truly understand the role that aerodynamics played in making it an icon. While most remember the XK120 for its powerful engine and sleek looks, what often goes unnoticed is how its streamlined design was key to achieving its record-breaking performance. In the late 1940s and early 1950s, when the XK120 was developed, car design was still relatively primitive compared to today's standards. However, Jaguar’s engineers understood that aerodynamics could give the car a competitive edge—long before it became a mainstream concern in the automotive world.
The XK120 wasn’t just another pretty face. When Jaguar unveiled it in 1948, it was the fastest production car in the world, reaching speeds of over 120 mph, hence its name. This achievement wasn’t just about horsepower. The shape of the car was designed to cut through the air with minimal resistance. Jaguar’s engineers worked to ensure the car’s rounded, teardrop shape would reduce drag, allowing it to maintain higher speeds with less effort. This design was radical at the time, and few realize how much it contributed to the car’s performance. Even the underbody was engineered to be smoother than most other cars of that era, which helped it slip through the air more efficiently.
The Jaguar XK120 is a car that holds a special place in automotive history. It’s widely recognized by enthusiasts and collectors for its stunning design and impressive speed, but few truly understand the role that aerodynamics played in making it an icon. While most remember the XK120 for its powerful engine and sleek looks, what often goes unnoticed is how its streamlined design was key to achieving its record-breaking performance. In the late 1940s and early 1950s, when the XK120 was developed, car design was still relatively primitive compared to today's standards. However, Jaguar’s engineers understood that aerodynamics could give the car a competitive edge—long before it became a mainstream concern in the automotive world.
The XK120 wasn’t just another pretty face. When Jaguar unveiled it in 1948, it was the fastest production car in the world, reaching speeds of over 120 mph, hence its name. This achievement wasn’t just about horsepower. The shape of the car was designed to cut through the air with minimal resistance. Jaguar’s engineers worked to ensure the car’s rounded, teardrop shape would reduce drag, allowing it to maintain higher speeds with less effort. This design was radical at the time, and few realize how much it contributed to the car’s performance. Even the underbody was engineered to be smoother than most other cars of that era, which helped it slip through the air more efficiently.
While most Jaguar enthusiasts admire the XK120 for its beauty and speed, few appreciate the engineering foresight that went into its aerodynamic design. The XK120’s streamlined body didn’t just make it look good—it played a crucial role in its speed and performance, setting the stage for the future of sports cars. So, next time you see this classic Jaguar, remember that its success wasn’t just about power but also about cutting-edge design principles that were decades ahead of their time.
Before you know it, a crisp autumn breeze will remind you that winter's chill is on its way. As homeowners, we'll take steps to put away outdoor lawn furniture, remove the garden hose from the outdoor faucet, and close down the pool for the season. But some feel that since their classic car is sitting in a garage it's safe and sound and completely protected. The fact that your pride and joy may not see road use for about 4-5 months can be just as damaging as redlining!
Below are some tips and proven ideas that will keep your classic from the icy grip of winter’s hand and
help to keep it fresh for the spring thaw. By taking
the steps mentioned below, your pride and joy will retain its classic appearance for years to come. There are additional steps you may need to take for storage longer than 6-8 months, like backing off valve
springs and other internal engine precautions, but
the mentioned steps ensure safe fall/winter hibernation for your classic!
1. Clean And Wax the Finish - We know that your car's finish is perfect, but in case you didn't get your classic properly waxed during the summer cruising months, now is the time to get it done before the temperature drops below freezing. Remember, corrosion's horrible recipe: mix 1 part moisture, with 1 part air, with 1 part dirt. Combined, the results are rust! Spend a little time now to save a lot of time and money later.
2. Check Your Coolant Level - I had a friend who didn't properly fill his classic's radiator with the adequate mix of coolant, and the wrong mix of water to coolant ratio caused the water to expand when the temperature dropped. The result? A block of ice blew out the radiator seals! When the ice melted there was quite a mess. Make sure to correctly mix and fill your radiator with the proper coolant. If it has been awhile, you may want to invest in a complete cooling system flush-n-fill process, to ensure the job is done right.
3. Check Your Oil Level - Some will tell you to replace the oil and filter upon storage and then once again in the spring when you take your classic out of storage. I just make sure all fluid levels are correct, and change the oil and filter in the spring. Either way, just make sure the fluid levels are correct.
4. Prepare Your Fuel System - Keep the fuel fresh. When gasoline sits, it can break down and form gum and varnish, which will clog a fuel system. Add a fuel stabilizer to your gas tank and run the engine for a few minutes to allow the agent to mix in with your fuel system lines. What's more, any moisture left in the fuel system can cause rust. Make sure that your tank is full of fuel before any storage. Air space within a gas tank allows for air to collect and condensate within the tank, causing rust.
5. Varmint Proof The Area - You can't allow any critters that make their way into your storage area to make your classic its home for the winter! Seal up any drafty doors or windows, and place some rodent control devices throughout the area. Remember, mice run in straight lines along wall edges, so a few well-placed traps around the perimeter of your classic will help deter any unwelcome guests. We've all heard the horror stories of chewed wiring and a dead mouse in the vent system! I'll usually cover the exhaust tips with a thick sweat sock to help protect the chrome finish and block any openings for critters to gain access
6. Remove Or Disconnect The Battery - Since your classic is sitting idle, remove the vehicle battery and if you have one place it on a trickle charger. Also, if you are thinking of storing the battery on the garage
floor - don’t! Place a wood board between the battery and the concrete. Temperature fluctuations in the concrete will rob the battery and cause premature wear. The board acts as an "insulator" between the concrete and the battery. While you are at it, clean off any corrosion from the battery terminals on both the battery and in your classic.
7. Up Off The Floor We Go - Place the vehicle on four heavy-duty jack stands and make sure you put some padding between the stands and the cars frame. Putting the car on jack stands will relieve spring tension, and in some cases where you may run bias-ply tires, will keep your tires from flat spotting while resting in one spot all winter. If you run radials, this isn't a concern, but if you run bias tires, you'll hear a "whump-whump" noise of flat spotted bias tires come spring if you don't. Make sure to place the jack stands on a secure lifting point, especially for heavy classics. Otherwise, you'll bend or possibly break parts, and we don't want that!
8. Wrap It Up - Invest in a quality breathable car cover. Don't rely on a plastic tarp, as they do not allow rising moist air to pass through. In fact, plastic tarps will promote corrosion! A breathable cover allows the air to pass through, but keep dust and moisture off your classic's finish. By removing moisture, dust and air, no corrosive deterioration begins to occur during storage.
